On the Trail Poachers That Illegally Capture China's Protected Singing Birds.
The conservationist's eyes scan across miles of tall grassland, searching for signs of life in the inky blackness.
He speaks in a hushed tone as the team seeks a concealed position in the open area. In the distance, the vast metropolis of Beijing remains asleep. During the vigil, the only sound is the sound of breathing.
Suddenly, as the sky starts to lighten ahead of sunrise, we hear footsteps. The poachers are here.
Trapped
Overhead, billions of birds, many so small that they could rest in the cup of a hand, are journeying southward for winter.
They have utilized the extended daylight in northern regions, feasting on bugs and berries. As the year nears its end and icy winds bring the initial freeze of winter, they are flying to southern locales to breed and eat.
China is home to 1500-plus bird species, which is about thirteen percent of the global population – over eight hundred of those are birds that migrate. Four of the nine major flyways they follow cross through China.
The patch of grassland where we were, on the outskirts of the Chinese capital, is an refuge for small birds – farther in and the urban landscape offer little opportunity to rest among clusters of concrete.
It is also an oasis for the poachers and their "mist nets", so thin you can hardly spot them.
A net we almost encountered was stretched across half the length of the field and held up with bamboo poles. In the middle, a meadow pipit was desperately trying to escape, but the more it struggled, the more its claws became tangled.
It was a meadow pipit, a protected bird in China, and an important "bio-indicator" – that means if its numbers are thriving, so is its habitat.
Tracking the Trappers
The conservationist, in his thirties, carries out this mission for free using his own savings. He has forgone many sleeping hours to release trapped birds, and he has spent the last 10 years urging the police in Beijing to prioritize this issue.
"Back in 2015, authorities were indifferent," he says.
So he recruited volunteers who were concerned and formed a group called the Beijing Migratory Bird Squad. He held public meetings and invited the officials of the local police and forestry bureau. These small and persistent acts of persuasion have shown results. The police realized that apprehending illegal hunters also helped in tracking down other kinds of criminal activity.
"We found our objectives became somewhat shared," Silva says, noting that the response is not uniform.
Silva's love of birds began during childhood. He grew up in the 1990s in a very different Beijing.
He remembers roaming through the grasslands on the city's edges where he found birds, frogs and snakes. "However, beginning in the 2000s, everything changed."
Industrialization brought a huge influx of rural workers to cities. This fast-paced development meant grasslands were considered areas for development, not sanctuaries to conserve.
This shift shocked him. The grasslands began to shrink, as did the habitats they supported.
"I made the choice back then to pursue environmental protection and I chose this direction," he says.
It has not been an simple journey. A major Beijing's biggest bird dealers discovered he was under scrutiny by Silva and retaliated.
"He assembled several of his accomplices who surrounded me and assaulted me," Silva recalls. He says he went to the police but those responsible were not brought to justice.
He has also lost his army of volunteers over the years. This work demands stealth and sleepless nights. Silva says not many are willing to take on the challenging and occasionally risky job.
"This is my full-time commitment," he says. "I made it a project because if you want to solve this big problem, you must devote yourself wholeheartedly. You cannot be half-hearted."
He says fundraising pays for some of the costs – over 100,000 yuan annually – but donations have dipped because of the economic situation.
So he has adopted new ways to hunt the hunters.
He studies aerial photos to find the paths created by the poachers. He charts these against the birds' flight paths and looks for areas where they may rest. The aerial views can even show lines of net traps which can capture hundreds of small birds during darkness.
"Siberian rubythroats and bluethroats command a high price," Silva says. "In big cities like Beijing and Tianjin, those who want to own songbirds are now often affluent."
Although there are wildlife laws in place, Silva argues the fines to punish the crime do not exceed the potential profits of catching and selling songbirds.
Owning a pet bird was – and for some generations in China, still is – a status symbol. This dates back to the imperial era. Nobles and elites would build ornate bamboo cages to display their birds.
This custom that persists mainly among retired men in their later years. Silva says older Chinese people don't realise they are breaking the law, or grasp that numerous birds had to die in a trap so they could buy a pet.
"This generation didn't even have enough to eat growing up. Now with a little money, they have inherited the habit and custom of keeping birds in cages," he says. "The nation progressed so fast, there was no time to raise awareness about ecology. Once people's attitudes are set, they're extremely difficult to change."
Apprehended
On a long low wall in Beijing, a vendor has several small cages with chirping songbirds.
Another man stands outside a nearby market holding a bird cage covered by a dark cloth. He informs passers-by discreetly that his songbird is valuable, worth nearly 1900 yuan.
This is a glimpse of an traditional side of the city where small unofficial traders have established a niche trade.
The area alongside the water extends over several miles and on a typical day, there were people looking at everything from vintage jewellery to false teeth.
We were told that wild songbirds could be purchased in a small park. The location was not concealed.
Loud music played from a speaker under the low trees where a group of elderly ladies were choreographing a fan dance. Nearby several men, all over 50, had congregated with bird cages – some had two or three in their hands. Most were covered in black fabric.
But today there would be no transactions because the police had appeared. They were questioning the bird owners and taking names. Unyielding, one man said he was {taking his caged bird for a walk|simply exercising his